Cooking with Fortified Wines

A Pepperidge Farm(R) Chef's Tip

Port, sherry, Madeira and Marsala are wines that tend to be very misunderstood and under appreciated. Some view these as wines for the eccentric or aged. To the contrary, these fortified wines bring classic and contemporary flavors to the kitchen.

"Fortified" wines are wines that have been strengthened with the addition of brandy. Centuries ago sherry, port, Madeira and Marsala were "created" from inferior wines which were doctored with a spirit like brandy to make them last longer in the bottle. The rest is history. The winemaker's secret of doctoring mediocre grapes with brandy created the classic fortified wines that are enjoyed today for sipping and cooking.

All of these wines have a higher alcohol content (17-21%) than table wines (which contain 10-14% alcohol) and therefore they stand up better to heat when cooking, keeping their deep flavors intact. Stored properly in a cool place, all of these wines keep indefinitely even after opened, so keep a bottle or two around.

- Port, often sipped after dinner, is sold as both Ruby and Tawny. Ruby port is younger, a bright red color, and can be quite fruity. Tawny port is aged in wood from 10 to 40 years, golden in color and can be quite complex in flavor. Port originated from Portugal 's Duoro
Valley .

- Madeira is named for Madeira Island , off the coast of Portugal . Curiously, Madeira is made from "cooking" the wine in tanks to bring about its notable flavor. Madeira is then aged in wooden casks. Styles of Madeira include sercial, which is lightest and driest, verdelho, which is sweeter and stronger, and boal, which is full and sweet.

- Marsala is Italy 's famous fortified wine, named for the port city of Marsala on the western tip of Sicily . Marsala is sold in three styles: secco (dry), semisecco (semisweet) and dolce (sweet). Sweet Marsala is used in the classic dessert zabaglione, and is also used in cooking.

- Sherry originated in the south of Spain , and range broadly in color, flavor and sweetness. Oloroso Sherries tend to be golden to deep brown and have a nutty flavor. Fino Sherries tend to be pale, very dry and tangy. Any sherry that is labeled cream sherry will be an oloroso that has been heavily sweetened. Sherry can be sipped before or after
dinner, and used in desserts.

Besides sipping these wines, use in cooking:

• Both tawny and ruby ports, Madeira and Marsala are suitable for deglazing the skillet after sautéing chops, steaks or chicken breasts.
• Use any of the fortified wines as part of a marinade before meat is grilled.
• Add depth of flavor to a vinaigrette salad dressing with the addition of port, sherry or Marsala .
• To glaze grilled or roasted meats or poultry, stir a couple tablespoons of port or Madeira into fruit preserves; brush onto meat towards end of cooking time.
• Cut pound cake into cubes, drizzle with sherry and top with whipped cream.
• Serve any of these wines with nuts, fruit and a little cheese for an elegantly simple dessert.

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Jules Silver
“Where sauce is the art and the essence of fine cooking.”
888-560-3562 or 303-337-4445

 

These tips may be reprinted, posted or included only in its entirety on any website or newsletter without first receiving express or written permission as long as the above author and the www.clubsauce.com website is included in the article.

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